Today, Tuesday [technically yesterday, I'm writing this after midnite, my time]
was the first ever "holiday" I've taken since I've been
on this trip in the Prairies. The other trips were somehow assignment-
related.
So, what did I do? My companion and I went to Moose Jaw. Home of
the world's giant moose and the Snowbirds (stunt flying) and
the Tunnels.
I've passed through Moose Jaw before and even then, I was enamoured
with this cute little town.
As a smaller town just 40 minutes southwest of Regina,it rocks!
It's a much more pleasant place than Regina in that there is actual
activity on its main drag.
Also, Moose Jaw has such beautifully preserved buildings dating back
to around the 1920's.
There are plenty of old school diners and restaurants. What I especially liked
were the handful of Chinese restaurants there with really cool 50's interiors.
The Tunnels of Moose Jaw were quite intriguing and an integral part of
Chinese Canadian history which everyone should see.
Back at the turn of the century -- 1880's or thereabouts -- Chinese immigrants
moved eastward from the coast of Canada to find their fortune in the many
small and medium-sized cities of the Prairies. They came because the
CPR, Canada's National transcontinental railway was finished and they were
essentially laid off.
Because of the hardships and the attitudes at the time, many Chinese people
lived in the basement laundries and manufacturing plants beneath Moose Jaw.
In essence, they constructed a system of underground tunnels out of the
existing steam pipe passageways that were already in place.
They did so either because they couldn't afford to live anywhere else but their
workplace or they were indentured labourers (slaves, practically) and also
because of the racist attitudes at the time.
This visit was especially compelling and wrought with emotion for me because,
I'm Chinese.
However, the tour was quite weird.
There was a tour guide that was dressed in a costume representing the time period.
And she did some reinacting: we were supposed to take on the roles of "coolies"
and she was supposed to be the overseer in charge of us.
So she barked orders at us and called us "coolies".
That was really weird.
Especially when, just before the tour started, she spoke with us in a very casual
what-a-beautiful-day-where-are-you-from? sort of way.
Then, as soon as we entered the tunnels, it was all business. She started addressing
us (we were the only ones on the Chinese Tour) as if we were a tour group of 15.
Then, there was this animatronic robot at the site of the underground laundry who, I guess
was supposed to be the white laundry owner. 'He' was incredilbe.
'He' called us "chinks" and "coolies".
Of course this whole reenactment was supposed to expose the horrible conditions
these Chinese people lived and the prevailing racist attitudes towards them, but it was all very
surreal for me because I was Chinese.
The tunnels were later (supposedly) occupied by Al Capone and his gangsters.
After Big Al left Chicago, he was (rumour has it) holed up in Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan.
So, all over town, there are all these 20's motifed murals and gangster-themed stores
and t-shirts with Al Capone's face on it, etc,etc,etc.
However, there is no solid evidence that Al actually came to Moose Jaw AKA 'Little Chicago'.
The 'Chicago Connection' was another part of the tour we didn't take as it cost another $12.
Also, more importantly, the Big Al thing seemed to be really tacky and based on rumours
anyway. I wanted to see real history, what really happened, and to see what my fellow
peeps had to go through in this country.
I was quite moved....seeing the conditions that these poor people had to live in and
hearing about the racist attitudes they had to endure.
I've known about this for quite some time, but to actually visit a site, though fictionalized
in some ways and styled as an intrepretive center, brought it much, much closer.
I know I'm rambling a bit, but hey, it's a blog.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
OK, so we also passed by this anti-abortion association's storefront with incredible
anti-choice propagandist posters and paraphenilia. Scary.
I missed out on the Christian Bible Store, it was closed. Sorry friends in Toronto,
no Jesus stickers on this trip. There is one in Regina though.....
So: all told, Moose Jaw rocks.